In June around the summer solstice, I took an early morning
walk in the fields across the road, and followed a side path into a profusion
of young goldenrod plants and trees festooned with wild grape vines. I quickly
gathered a passel (30-40, that is) of big lush new grape leaves, to make a pile
of dolmas for a solstice party that night.
Yep you don’t have to buy them at the $7.89 per half lb
olive bar, you can make them yourself. I used to buy jars of preserved grape
leaves, but this is more fun. I first posted about dolmas using wild grape leaves late
last August http://www.backinthecaragain.blogspot.com/2011/08/wild-grapes-their-leaves.html,
but by then the leaves are a tad leathery and not so succulent when cooked. So grab
‘em young (a good motto generally!). They are still fine in late July – I harvested
a bunch on July 21 on the high ground above Fall Creek off Freese Road. The
local hipster enviro camp counselors seem to be using the “forked dragon’s
tongue” characteristic of the grape vine’s growing tendrils to help little kids
identify this plant but heck, it’s just grape leaves, eh?! (other motto: “What could
possibly go wrong?”).
I cooked the grape leaves in boiling water for 1-2 minutes
until they turned from bright green to olive green – drained and let them cool.Cut off the stem ends. Reserve a few to cover the bottom of the dolmas simmer pan.
Anticipating a gluten free vegan crowd at the solstice
party, I grabbed my ancient trusty “Middle Eastern Cookery” by Eva Zane (101
Productions, San Francisco, 1974) and went with her “Basics” dolmas stuffing recipe:
1
cup (white) rice soaked in cold water and drained.
¼ cup
each currants and pine nuts (I had raisins and not-roasted almond slivers, used
them instead – this is based on the Peggy Renwick principle of “substitute everything”).
1
cup finely minced green onions or 1 cup grated onion (me, 1 cup roughly chopped
onion).
3 T
minced (fresh, please) parsley.
2 T
fresh chopped dill.
2
garlic cloves (Zane sez “optional,” I say “Nonsense”)
½ tsp
allspice
Salt
and pepper to taste.
Stir
this all up. Place a grape leaf on towel or counter or plate (“dull side” up –
I could not discern a dull side; they both work). Place 1 – 3 tsp of filling on
the leaf (depends on the size of the leaf). Here are the directions I cannot
seem to fully comply with: “Fold end of leaf over to cover filling, fold sides
in and starting at stem end, roll carefully to form a firm cylinder about 2
inches long, depending on size of leaf.” My firm cylinders look more like tiny envelopes,
but they work just fine. Do this for all the grape leaves, eh?
You
may have leftover stuffing. I cooked it in a saucepan w/added water and served as
a side dish with certified gluten free tortilla chips and it was wolfed, reckon
that should be deered, down.
Spread
the “reserved” leaves on the bottom of a heavy saucepan, place the dolmas side
by side across the bottom, then stack them up until all are, well, ya know, in
place (my recipe lingo falters occasionally, here because I am way too self
conscious about that foodie term “reserve”).
Sprinkle
the layers with lemon juice if you have it. Add 1 cup water or stock (I added more
as needed while it cooked – don’t want the dolmas to scorch), 3 T olive oil,
and cover with a heavy plate, saucer or other simmer-proof item, to prevent the
dolmas from unfolding while cooking. Cover and simmer over low heat, checking
frequently, for about 1 hour. Test for tenderness (eat one). Remove from pan,
cool, and place on a serving platter, garnish with parsley sprigs and lemon
wedges if you got em. Serve with bowl of chilled yogurt (plain not
sweetened), or not. They will all be eaten quickly.